Lowcountry Shrimp and crab Boil

With blue crabs, sausage, corn on the cob, and tender new potatoes, this lowcountry-inspired shrimp boil makes for a rustic and utterly delicious spread that is just the thing for impromptu summertime gatherings. I sometimes serve it in individual tins or buckets, but that’s about as refined as I ever get with this low-key dish, which is best eaten right out of the bucket or from a big pile on the table, with a crowd of friends, and always with your fingers.

Serves 10-12

2  tablespoons olive oil 

1  Vidalia or other sweet onion, quartered 

8  garlic cloves, smashed 

2  quarts cold water 

One 12-ounce beer 

2  tablespoons pickling spices

2  teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste 

1  teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 

1⁄2  teaspoon ground cayenne pepper 

1  lemon, halved 

1  pound small new potatoes, such as Yukon Gold,  Rose Blossom, or fingerling 

6  live blue crabs (optional) 

5  pounds large shrimp, shells on 

1  pound spicy link sausage, such as andouille, chorizo,  or linguiça, cut into 3-inch lengths 

6  ears corn, shucked and halved 

2  tomatoes, cored and chopped 

6  sprigs fresh thyme 

6  sprigs fresh marjoram or oregano 

1  cup fresh basil leaves, cut into thin strips 

Freshly ground black pepper 

Spicy Cocktail Sauce  

Crusty Garlic Bread (recipe follows), for dipping 

Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat until hot. Add the onion, reduce the heat to medium, and cook and stir for about 5 minutes, until soft and golden. Add the garlic and continue to cook and stir for 1 minute longer.

Add the cold water, beer, pickling spices, salt, red pepper flakes, and cayenne. Squeeze the lemon juice into the mixture and add the squeezed halves. Raise the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 10 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook, covered, for 10 minutes, until they are just beginning to get tender. (Depending on the size of the potatoes, they may need to cook 2 to 5 minutes more.)

Add the crabs, if using, and bring the mixture back up to a low boil. Cover and cook for 5 minutes more. Add the shrimp, sausage, corn, tomatoes, thyme, marjoram, and basil. Return to a low boil and cook for about 5 minutes longer, until the shrimp turn bright pink and are cooked through and the potatoes are tender.

Drain the boiled ingredients, reserving about 2 cups of the cooking liquid. To serve, cut the crabs in half and crack the shells; then pile the shrimp, crab, sausage, and vegetables on a large platter (or, if eating outside, in tin buckets or down the center of a table covered with newspaper or butcher paper). Pour the reserved liquid on top if using a platter or in dipping bowls, season with salt and black pepper, and serve with Spicy Cocktail Sauce and Crusty Garlic Bread, for dipping.

JUDY’S BILOXI SHRIMP BOIL Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add a handful of fresh herbs, such as parsley, dill, basil, bay leaves, or any combination of these; 1 lemon, cut in half, squeezed, and added to the water; and 1 tablespoon each of the following: sea salt, whole black peppercorns, crushed red pepper flakes, yellow mustard seeds, garlic flakes, and onion flakes. Let the mixture boil for 2 to 3 minutes; then add 5 pounds fresh shrimp, shells on and preferably with the heads on. Give the mixture a stir and cook until it comes back to a boil and the shrimp start to rise to the top of the water and are cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Strain, reserving some of the cooking liquid, and serve hot with melted butter for dipping, lemon wedges for squeezing over the shrimp, and Crusty Garlic Bread for dipping in the reserved cooking liquid.

Crusty Garlic Bread

Makes 1 loaf

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Slice 1 baguette or loaf of French bread in half lengthwise and spread both sides with soft unsalted butter. Smash and mince 2 garlic cloves and sprinkle evenly over the butter.

For soft bread, wrap in foil and heat in the oven until the butter is melted and the bread is warm. For crispy bread, place open-face on a baking sheet and bake to melt the butter and lightly toast. Serve warm.

Know-how:  making pickling spices

You can make your own pickling spices by combining equal parts bay leaves, yellow mustard seeds, crushed red pepper flakes, sea salt, whole black peppercorns, whole cloves, and celery seeds in a glass jar. Screw the lid on the jar and shake to mix. The spices will keep in an airtight container for up to 6 months.

.